When I was growing up in Fort Wayne, The Landing was one of those places you just wanted so badly to be cool. One little block nestled in the heart of downtown, the street is lined with beautiful architecture. It even had its ready-to-be-a-destination-point name. “Where are you going?” “The Landing.”
Bars and restaurants came and went, never reaching critical mass.
But now, thanks to economic development fairies (more commonly known as time, effort, developers, and investments), Columbia Street between Harrison and Calhoun streets has become the vibrant, thriving gathering place everyone hoped it could become. Now closed to vehicular traffic, it’s a true mixed-use block with offices, retail stores, restaurants galore, and residential spaces, and it’s regularly buzzing with activity.
That this transformation happened during the throes of the pandemic makes it all the more amazing.
As development plans were being announced a few years ago, I was excited to see a restaurant in the works from the Cunningham Restaurant Group of Indianapolis. Several of my favorite places to eat in Indy are part of CRG, and I’ve never had a bad experience at one of their restaurants.
So when Marquee at The Landing opened in November 2021, I was eager to check it out. It has rapidly become one of my favorite locales, ideal for date night or a special occasion, or just a good night out.
Marquee is sprawling inside — I’ve been a number of times, and I don’t think I’ve been seated in the same room twice, plus they have a large patio. It’s upscale without feeling fancy or stuffy (but cold, so maybe take a sweater).
On to the Food!
The menu has an entire section devoted to hand-cut fries — how can you ignore that? Clearly that means they must be good. You have your choice of style (truffle oil, manchego and bacon, duck fat and rosemary, sriracha) and two dipping sauces.
On my first visit, we began our meal with truffle oil fries with house ketchup and beer cheese. I loved everything about it.
The loaded potato croquettes were an even more delicious starter at another meal. (I promise I eat more than just fried potatoes.) With bacon, pickled red onion, beer cheese, and garlic aioli, the croquettes were light and fluffy, with a crispy exterior.
I’ve had the salmon entrée a couple times, and I have loved it so much. The salmon was served with asparagus spears over a bed of roasted tomato and andouille sausage risotto, with a drizzle of red chili beurre blanc.
I always think I don’t like asparagus, until I cross paths with some that has been well-cooked and is hanging out with other foods I enjoy. Together it all makes for a yummy, fresh bite. This was one of those times. Everything on the plate was well-executed, in terms of seasoning and cookery.
Bringing the heat
Happenstance had me eating at Marquee repeatedly in a small window of time, so as much as I wanted to have the salmon again, on my most recent trip, I felt I wasn’t being fair to the other entrées.
I decided to try the striped bass, served with jasmine rice, roasted tomato salad, and jambalaya sauce, which got me out of my comfort zone as a total lightweight when it comes to spicy food. This confirmed that.
As much as I liked the rice and the fish, the jambalaya sauce set my lips on fire. Fortunately, our attentive server happily filled and refilled my water glass. (Note to you, dear readers: It might not have even been that spicy. Who’s a lightweight? This girl! That’s part of the beauty of food; we have different tastes — literally!)
During that visit, my dining companion created some food envy in me, but fortunately he’s a willing food-sharer.
He had the kimchi meatloaf, presented with Thai ketchup, apple-yuzu jam, and a colcannon potato fritter.
That all sounds really fancy, and this is in no way intended to take away from the preparation or presentation, but in my notes, I wrote “applesauce and potato poofs.” Call it whatever you like; it was all super-tasty, in a highly elevated version of traditional comfort food. The person who actually got to eat most of it said it was as if Grandma had gone to culinary school.
Something for Everyone
One of my dining adventures to Marquee at The Landing was on my birthday, so naturally there was dessert!
My friend and I shared the chocolate terrine: layers of chocolate graham cracker and ganache, with blackberry sauce and the most delicious black raspberry ice cream (a question to our server revealed it to be Graeter’s Ice Cream out of Cincinnati, which you should familiarize yourself with if you have not already). It was the perfect finale to a great meal.
The menu at Marquee changes seasonally, with some staple items. The menu offers some gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan selections, and they have lots of seafood, which this not-quite pescatarian appreciates.
Hey, Fort Wayne. I’m looking for your suggestions on the best places in the area to get pizza for an upcoming article. Help me find the hidden gems!
Shoot me a message at WendyEatsFW@gmail.com.
