I like to go to out to eat — how do you think I got this gig? I also like to think I stay on top of new restaurants, although I’ve fallen off my game somewhat in recent years. 

But still, when people rave about a place, I try to hit it up. So when a friend suggested we meet at Ophelia’s, 1603 N. Wells St., for brunch, I jumped at the chance — I’d heard friends praise it but hadn’t yet experienced it myself. 

Get you something to drink?

Nestled in a charming old house in the Wells Street Corridor, Ophelia’s has a cozy dining room on the main level, a bright and airy dining room upstairs, and a spacious patio out back for the al fresco season. (On both my visits we were seated on the upper level, and be forewarned, the stairs are steep.) 

I’m not a coffee drinker, but even I was impressed with the array of coffee, tea, and specialty concoctions. My friend ordered an iced Flora Latte, which had notes of lavender and rose. And it arrived with a reusable metal straw, which I don’t think I’ve ever seen in a restaurant. I appreciate the efforts to avoid single-use straws! 

Let’s meet for brunch

Many things on the menu sounded good, and I experienced my usual brunch dilemma: sweet or savory? Friends, I am here to tell you, Ophelia’s has your back on this struggle. 

They have various sweet or savory options you could add to your meal, including a half-order of their French toast of the day. That cleared things right up: I ordered the Totcos with a side of French toast. 

What are Totcos, you ask? Why, they’re smashed tots with shredded lettuce and cheese, topped with “fiesta sauce” and wrapped in flour tortillas (various meats can be added for an up-charge). There was just a little heat, and they were yummy. They could have benefited a smidge from some fresh tomato, or maybe radish — something a little fresh and bright — but I enjoyed them. I even took one home to enjoy the next day.

The half-order of French toast did not disappoint. It was the perfect portion to split with my friend, and it was delicious. Made with brioche and brown sugar custard, it was served with a blueberry compote and brown butter cream cheese frosting. It was fluffy yet had crispy edges, and it wasn’t drowning in the toppings; everything was nicely balanced. 

My friend ordered the Migas: scrambled eggs, cheddar jack cheese, black beans, avocado, green sauce, homemade tots, and flour tortillas on the side. It was an abundant portion, and the eggs and beans were quite tasty (yay for friends who let you try their food!). Everything had good flavor all on its own. 

Out to lunch

Not long after this brunch outing, I was due to meet another friend for lunch, and he suggested meeting at one of our semi-usual downtown haunts. Eager to try Ophelia’s again, I threw out the idea, and he too hopped on the idea of trying something new. 

I consider myself a bit of a grilled cheese connoisseur — on days when my job is annoying me, I daydream about the grilled cheese diner I run in an alternate life. 

So, if a restaurant has an intriguing grilled cheese on the menu, especially one involving fruit, that’s where I’m heading.

Lady O’s grilled cheese features slices of Braeburn apple, onion jam, white cheddar, chevre, and arugula on brioche. Sandwiches are served with a choice of house tots or fresh fruit, and while I really wanted the fruit, when I asked what it was the first thing she rattled off was mango, which is not my favorite. So, bring on the tots. 

In general, my lunch was good but not great. For me, a fundamental rule for a terrific grilled cheese is that gooey, melted cheese needs to hold it all together, and that was not the case; had the cheese been meltier, it would have served the sandwich well (especially since it started falling apart as I ate it). I did appreciate the sharpness from the arugula and the crispness of the apple, and the flavors were harmonious. 

The tots were a bit of a bummer. They were nice and crispy, but the interior was almost wet as if they maybe hadn’t been given enough time to fully cook through, and they were a bit underseasoned, without any definitive flavor. 

My dining companion had the 5th & Wells Crispy Chicken Sandwich, with buttermilk brined chicken thigh, baby kale, tomato, fried egg aioli, and house pickles, on an everything bun. He opted for the fruit (so I stole some blueberries). 

I got to swipe a bite of his sandwich as well, and it was messy but delicious. The chicken was satisfyingly crispy, and the breading was flavorful. There was a little sharpness in something, maybe some horseradish in the aioli, and it added a nice little bite. 

Ophelia’s is also open for dinner, which I’ll have to find time to check out soon. There are some different items on the dinner menu that sound tempting. 

While not everything I tried was a home run, I enjoyed my experiences. I definitely dig the casual, comfortable vibe, with lightly elevated takes on familiar classics.